In 2024, we spent four nights in Siena following a three week stay in Florence. Siena is a convenient 90 minute train ride from Florence, with many direct departure times daily.
Siena is definitely worth a look if you are staying in Florence or travelling through Tuscany. Lots of travellers visit Siena as a day trip, which is a good option if you are driving. This is also good news for those staying overnight, as the town quietens down a little after the daytrippers are gone. If you catch the train like we did, be aware that the railway station is a 30 min walk from the main centre of Siena. We took a taxi to our boutique bed and breakfast stay. There are also local buses.
Where We Stayed
Blossoms of Siena is a four room bed and breakfast in an amazing location, right in the heart of the town, just one street back from the enormous Piazza del Campo. We were absolutely delighted with the location. It’s situated on one of Siena’s most frequented pedestrian streets.
Each of the rooms is styled based on one of the four seasons. We were in the ‘Summer’ room. We could see the dome of the Siena Cathedral from our window, and another in room highlight was the hanging cane chair. Loved it!
Vouchers were provided for breakfast at Pasticceria Nannini Conca D’Oro, where we had a continental breakfast, Italian style. We also took advantage of the small terrace, enjoying the view of Torre del Mangia, the beautiful tower of Piazza del Campo.
What We Saw – The Hit List
Duomo di Siena
You can’t miss this cathedral! Not only is it beautifully ornate outside, with its green and white marble, and amazing mosaics, the inside is just as spectacular. Pay for an entrance ticket and do not miss the Library – my favourite room. We booked tickets through their official site: https://operaduomo.siena.it/en/
Piazza del Campo
Probably the most iconic image of Siena is this enormous square (‘piazza’). The outer edge is lined with cafes and restaurants, with the Palazzo Pubblico and its tower the stand out feature. Stand in the middle (or in the shade to one side) and soak up the history and atmosphere.
Palazzo Pubblico
Palazzo Pubblico was once a town hall but now houses a museum. We didn’t explore the museum, but it’s still worth visiting the internal courtyard (where the ticket booth is) and enjoying the view of its tower from below.
Attend a Local Event
Siena hosts a number of events throughout the year, ranging from cultural to sporting. We were fortunate enough to have our stay coincide with the Gran Premio Nuvolari, an international rally for vintage cars. Siena was on the rally’s route and the cars passed right through Piazza del Campo. If you are flexible with your visit, consider what interesting events may be scheduled around your intended dates.
Meander the Medieval Streets
Obviously you can’t miss just having a good wander around and exploring the different areas of the old town. Grab a sweet local speciality in Pasticceria Nannini Conca D’Oro (it was a pistachio filled ‘corneto’ for us), a hand painted ceramic christmas tree bauble in Ceramiche Antica Siena By Martini Marisa (we try to buy one in every city we visit), or some locally sourced truffle honey at Antica Drogheria Manganelli 1879 (delightful with cheese!).
Where We Dined (and Drank)
Quarto Bistro – Intimate Dinner in Quirky Surrounds
The name is indicative of the size of this restaurant. It only has 4 tables (so book in advance – we booked by reaching out through their Instagram account). It feels like dinner at a friend’s place, as it is so intimate, and with so few guests, you get really lovely personalised service. David (the owner) is happy to talk about what is clearly his passion, food and hospitality. We heard how he was just opening the restaurant when Covid struck, shutting down the dining scene for quite a while.
The menu is small, but everything is very well executed. We had a thoroughly enjoyable evening.
Zest – Local Specialities
We took a chance and didn’t book for this restaurant after coming across it on a walk earlier in the day, and were met with a cheeky telling off by the owner Maurizio. Fortunately we could be accommodated. Zest is located on a steep, narrow street, and the tables are cleverly positioned on the slope. We sat at the last table on the high end of the street and had an amazing view of the Cathedral whilst the sun went down.
Both of us opted for a glass of Brunello di Montalcino (a rich Tuscan red wine) and shared a fried burrata for our starter. We both couldn’t resist the Pici al Ragu di Cinghiale (wild boar ragu on thick tube pasta, a regional speciality). Worth adding this one to your list…. and booking it!
Spritz’O’Clock – Serene or Social?
Two good options for a Spritz or Negroni include the stone-walled courtyard of ChigianArtCafè. Just off one of Siena’s busiest pedestrian streets, this place feels peaceful and private. Go late afternoon for a relaxing vibe.
For something with a little more bustle, a view, and plenty of people watching, head to Piazza del Duomo and find the cafe adjoining the Santa Maria della Scala museum complex, facing the Duomo. In the afternoon, the sun lights up the Duomo’s facade, while you can sit nicely in the shade with your spritz.
Shakerato – Elevated Espresso
Can a shot of espresso be refreshing? Yes it can! One of our favourite daytime drinks during summer in Italy is a decent shakerato. A shot of rich espresso, with sugar, well shaken with ice until frothy. We had a delightful shakerato served in gorgeous glasses, at La Bottega Del Caffe (conveniently just next door to Blossoms of Siena). We sat on stools out the front. A perfect setting for people watching.
There are so many beautiful towns to visit in Tuscany and as mentioned at the start of this post, Siena is worth a visit if you have time on your travels through the region. If you are limited to just stopping on a day trip, then top of your list should be visiting the Cathedral. It is so beautiful, more ornate that the one in Florence. At least admire the façade if nothing else. Follow that up with a walk through Piazza del Campo, a pasta lunch, and buy a treat for yourself at Pasticceria Nannini Conca D’Oro, or Antica Drogheria Manganelli 1879. Have a wonderful trip!