Exploring the Gorgeous Island of Capri

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The Island of Capri is beautiful, and has a reputation as being one of those places where the rich and the beautiful spend their holidays. And from what we saw, they do! We have visited this small island three times on different visits to the Amalfi Coast, and it is worth the day trip to admire the gorgeous gardens, scenic vistas and attractive streets. 

The two towns we have explored on the island are Capri (yes, like the island’s name) and Anacapri.

Getting There

On each of our visits, we took the Ferry from Positano. For our first visit, we were actually staying in a small town called Priano, between the towns of Positano and Amalfi. We caught a bus to Positano, then walked down through the town to the ferry wharf. The last time we went to Capri we were staying in Positano (at Hotel Palazzo Murat), so it was a quick and easy walk to the wharf.

We bought our return tickets on the day from the ticket booth next to the wharf. The trip is about 30 to 40 minutes and the ferry arrives at Marina Grande. Both Capri and Anacapri are a short distance uphill from the Marina.

Heading up the Hill to Capri

On arriving on the Island of Capri, there are several options to make your way up the hill to the town of Capri. You can walk up the steps, which is what we did on our first visit as the queue for the funicular was enormous. It is quite a walk, 750 metres uphill, but the views are fabulous.

You can take the funicular, which we did on our last visit (we were older and wiser, so skipped the stairs). The tickets were €1.80 per person, one way (2016), and available from the ticket office at the opening to the funicular. Most people on the ferry are taking this option, so waste no time getting a ticket, and joining the queue, or explore around the Marina Grande and let the rush subside.

You can also take a public bus (though they can be crowded) and the last option is to take one of the fantastic looking convertible taxis. I have my eye on one of these for the next time we are in Capri.

Admiring the Views from Piazza Umberto

As you alight the funicular and come through the gates you are in Piazza Umberto. On our first visit, as we entered this square from the steps we were horrified to have arrived amongst the most enormous crowd of people. It was going to make any sort of enjoyable sightseeing difficult with such a mass of people. However it turned out we had arrived in the middle of some type of blessing ceremony. From what we could gather, ambulances and first responders were being blessed in the piazza. What a relief that the crowd was temporary! 

The view from Piazza Umberto back down the hill towards the marina area is fantastic, so make this your first stop after arriving from the stairs, funicular or the bus (which also drops you here). Take some time to admire the sculptures and potted plants and incorporate them into your photos. 

Exploring Around Piazzetta di Capri

Adjoining Piazza Umberto is Piazzetta di Capri with its clock tower. There are some lovely scenes as you explore the little pedestrian streets that run off the main square. There are lots of fancy shops full of clothes, art and souvenirs. We were quite taken with a silver crab figurine, but at €980.00, it was staying in Capri. 

The hotels we passed were all beautifully maintained, with flags, flowers and inviting places to sit for a drink or a meal. The white washed Hotel La Palma had the most beautiful display of hydrangeas, which we admired from the street.

On our most recent visit, we had taken the 9.00am ferry from Positano. By 10.30am it was shoulder to shoulder in and around the main square of Capri. This was peak season. The advantage of staying on Capri for a night or two would be that in the early morning, and the evenings, the place will be so much more comfortable while the day trippers aren’t about. 

Enjoy a Luxe Coffee Break

As you walk the streets, there are gorgeous little cafes and bars, inviting enough to stop and take a few minutes off your feet. On our first visit to Capri we weren’t going to fall for paying top dollar in the main squares for a coffee and a snack. Instead we stopped on Via Carmerelle and ordered a cappuccino and a small Italian pastry each – chocolate filled sfogliatelle. They were delicious! 

Turns out Via Carmerelle is one of the most upmarket streets in Capri, home to Gucci, Dior, Chanel and the like, so we were up for €16.00 (2010)! It was still worth it, the cappuccino was one of the best of the trip, and we had a great little table out the front of the bar so were able to people watch.

On our last trip to Capri, we decided to throw caution to the wind and have a drink in Piazzetta di Capri in Al Piccolo Bar. We had a view of the clock tower and enjoyed watching the comings and goings of everyone passing. The beer was a reasonable (for Capri) €8.00, and my Aperol Spritz was €11.00.

Don’t Miss the Views from Giardini di Augusto (Gardens of Augustus)

Don’t miss the immaculate Giardini di Augusto. Even if well manicured gardens are not your thing, it is worth the small admission cost to admire the views from here. The gardens are situated so that they look south, the view capturing the Faraglioni rock formations and out to sea. 

There are numerous great vantage points on the island for amazing views of the sea and surrounding rock formations, but the Giardini di Augusto is probably the closest to the town of Capri and an easy walk past more lovely shops, including the tempting Carthusia Perfumery if you need a gift for someone, especially yourself.

Sightseeing in Anacapri

We actually visited Anacapri on a different day trip to the Island. So to get up the hill to Anacapri, we took one of the small orange buses.  As a ferry load of tourists had just arrived the first bus from the wharf was full, and we explored Marina Grande for 30 minutes until the next bus arrived. Again, you could take one of the amazing convertible cabs. And you can also get a bus from the town of Capri.

The bus trip was a wild ride up the hill, and the views were great. 

The Church of San Michele 

The Church of San Michele only cost us €3.00 each to visit, but I would expect it is a little more now. The main drawcard is the amazing painted floor. Dating back to 1761, the floor depicts Adam and Eve being expelled from the Garden of Eden. The detail is incredible and includes lush plants and an enormous range of animals.

To preserve the floor, we were walking around the outside on raised wooden planks. It was busy with visitors when we went, so we were shuffling past others as we made our way around. 

A spiral staircase takes you up to a compact mezzanine. Make sure you climb these stairs, as the view of the floor from the elevated position is great. 

Take the Chairlift to Monte Solaro

€12.00 will get you a return ride on the Anacapri chairlift up to Monte Solaro. If you are scared of heights, this may not be for you. Each chair is for a single person. And it is just a suspended, open chair with a bar across your lap. 

I really enjoyed the ride. Husband did not. It takes about 6 minutes or so to reach the top. We passed over people’s gardens and houses and the grassy hillside. 

The view at the top is stunning! This is the highest point of the island. 

We enjoyed the view from various points before making our way back down. 

Villa San Michele

The last thing we did whilst in Anacapri was visit Villa San Michele. This villa was the home of Swedish physician Axel Munthe from 1896 to 1907. You can read more about him on Villa San Michele’s web site.

This Villa has a lot going for it! The place itself is beautiful, the garden is amazing, and views from the Villa towards Italy’s mainland are spectacular. It is well worth ensuring you have time to see it (€10.00 each as at 2022).

Retuning to the Mainland

From the town of Capri, we have caught the funicular and walked the stairs back down to the marina. To be honest, the only reason we took the stairs down on one of our trips was because the queue for the funicular was so large, that we were worried we wouldn’t be at the wharf in time to make our departing ferry.

From Anacapri, we took the bus back down to the marina.

While we waited for our ferry, we watched people rushing past for the ferry to Naples which was about to depart. As it was departing, a young couple with three take away coffees in their hands ran past us towards the ferry, but it was too late! The gangplank was up and the ferry was pulling away. I wonder if they were any consequences for them. Hopefully they weren’t due back on a cruise liner. I am sure they regretted stopping to get those coffees for the trip. 

Once back in Positano, it’s time to head to an aperitivo bar and reflect on the beauty of the Island of Capri. And if you’re us, fantasise about staying in one of the amazing looking hotels on our next visit.