In 2019 we spent two weeks in Nice after spending a week in Budapest and also a week in Vienna. The idea behind having two weeks in Nice was to ensure we had enough time to take day trips to nearby towns, and also enough unstructured time to relax.
We had booked an apartment through Nice Pebbles which was very close to the famous Promenade des Anglais, and also a 10-15 minute walk to the old town. There were also plenty of public transport options a short walk in any direction. Having an apartment meant we had a kitchen and washing machine which suited a longer stay.
We got to know Nice reasonably well over the two weeks, and here are some of the highlights of our stay.
Walking the Promenade des Anglais
Everyone spends time on this seven kilometre Promenade which runs from the airport to Nice’s old town. We were visiting Nice in the summer and each morning the Promenade was full of joggers, roller bladers, cyclists and dog walkers. Throughout the day tourists and beach goers carting beach chairs, towels and blow up water toys down to the pebbly beach (it isn’t sand!) are frequenting the strip. Whilst in the evening, families and couples stroll the Promenade after their dinners to enjoy the sunset and cooler evening temperatures.
There are quite a few highlights to take in if you wander the palm tree lined Promenade des Anglais for even just a few minutes starting from Nice’s old town. The Promenade is fitted with blue chairs at regular intervals so that everyone can sit and enjoy the view out to sea. You will find a statue, La chaise bleue de SAB, in honour of the chairs near Avenue Max Gallo.
Of course the beach itself is a wonderful site. The blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea are very tempting on hot days, just watch out for the pebbles, take some beach shoes. You can get a great view of the beach and the Promenade from Castle Hill (Colline du Château). There is even an elevator to reach the top of the hill if you don’t fancy the walk.
The umbrellas of the various beach clubs are also very picturesque.
Insta-worthy “I Love Nice” Sign
Line up and get your Instagram photos here! The best time is morning when the sun is shining on the eastern side of the sign, so you can include the beach and Promenade des Anglais in the background. We were there at 9am and the sun was perfect! However even at 9am we had to wait our turn to get a photo.
Admire Port de Nice Lympia
Who doesn’t love looking at expensive boats in a picturesque harbour. Nice’s port isn’t huge, but the expensive yachts berthed in front of colourful buildings with green hills and blue sky as a backdrop makes the visit worthwhile.
The port is lined with a number of bars and restaurants if you fancy a refreshing drink after admiring the yachts of the wealthy.
Nice’s Old Town
At one entrance to the old town, you will find the wonderful Fontaine du Soleil. We took heaps of photos of this fountain, but most of the time the sun was on his backside. If you want the sun on his face, it seems there is only a small window of opportunity in the late afternoon.
The old town was a frequent destination for us while we were in Nice. We had a favourite coffee spot (Hobo Cafe), a favourite wine shop (Les Grandes Caves Caprioglio – very helpful staff) and also bought our fresh pasta here (at either Barale Raviolis or Maison Tosello).
Often we stopped at the open-air Marché Aux Fleurs Cours Saleya (market) for fresh fruit if we were passing. Even if you aren’t buying, it is an interesting wander through the market area. The surrounding shops have some interesting food related products too.
One day we purchased a beautiful pistachio gelato filled, supersized macaron at Angea Nice. I had been eying off these treats since our very first day in Nice. Eventually I relented and bought one. It was worth it.
The old town is full of pedestrian only laneways lined with shops. A lot of them are quite tourist focused, but there are some lovely places to buy a nice piece of art or a memento. There are plenty of cafes and bars to enjoy. We had gin and tonics in Place Rossetti (a square) with a view of Nice’s Cathedral, Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice.
On the Promenade side of the old town, you will find a replica of the Statue of Liberty. It is in front of the Opéra de Nice (Opera House), just a three-minute walk from the open-air market. There was also a giant ‘The Thumb’ sculpture in the Hôtel de Ville de Nice (Town Hall) by César Baldaccini, 1963.
The Amazing Le Negresco Hotel
Le Negresco is an institution in Nice. We’d describe it as upmarket and eccentric. It is the type of place you never get sick of looking at as it basks in the sun overlooking the sea.
We actually stayed at Le Negresco back in 2011, our very first time visiting France. It is full of art and antiques, and interesting to explore.
On this trip, we visited for drinks in the afternoon, and we’ll save the story for a future post. It is definitely worth a visit, even if only to see it from the outside.
Le Negresco is next door to Villa Masséna Musée (a museum) which has lovely gardens. Tucked in a corner of the gardens is a moving memorial to the victims of the 2016 Bastille day lorry attack which took place on the Promenade.
Quirky Giant Cube Head – Tête Carrée
This maybe isn’t really a highlight, more something quirky and unexpected. We stumbled on this giant cube head whilst going elsewhere. It is actually a library at the bottom and offices within the cube. It’s located in the Jardin Sacha SOSNO (a park-like garden) which has a number of other interesting sculptures displayed amongst plants and flower beds.
After dark, this giant head lights up and is even more impressive. We were able to see it at night after dining nearby at Café Paulette (recommended!) which is on Rue Bonaparte. Rue Bonaparte is a pedestrian street lined with bars and cafes and is heaving with people at night.
There is certainly more we could say about all of the above, and many more sights we could include. But we hope we have provided enough of an insight to get you interested in Nice. Or to at least have given you an interesting read. Although at the time we said two weeks was more than enough, looking at these photos has made us want to return.
