The first time we visited France, we arrived by train from Italy’s Cinque Terre into Nice. Nice is located on the French Riviera, on the south-eastern coast of France, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The train trip itself had a few noteworthy points, but that is a story for another post. We caught a taxi from the train station and arrived promptly in front of Le Negresco’s iconic white-washed entrance. Our cases were whisked into the reception area by the super smartly dressed concierge.
First Impressions
I will admit that we did feel a little like fish out of water. Le Negresco is an incredibly upmarket hotel, with an even more upmarket restaurant (the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Chantecler), posh bars and is full of eclectic artworks from far and wide. This is a quote from their website: “Le Negresco epitomises a landmark of the French art of living and heritage”. We, however, are not upmarket people, and don’t move in ‘posh’ circles. We do scrub up alright though, and like to look at art. This was going to be one of those ‘experience’ stays, and we were excited.
The check in and concierge area isn’t huge but gorgeous with marble, velvet sofas and beautifully arranged flowers. There was hustle and bustle from guests coming and going and others checking in. But that was the tip of the iceberg as once we were given our key and moved into the enormous ballroom-like central ‘Salon Royal’ we were amazed. The colorful sculpture called ‘Nana Jaune’ by Niki de Saint Phalle is eye catching.
We took the ornate wooden elevator, velvet lined and complete with chandelier, to level 1. We couldn’t wait to see our room. Art certainly featured all over the hotel. It lined the walls of corridors and sculptures were positioned wherever the floor space allowed. Later in our stay we visited each floor just to admire the art!
Our Room
On opening the door to room 108, the first impression was how much it retained the period feel as it may have been at the 1913 opening of the hotel. Our ‘petit’ room was fitted out with what appeared to be antique furniture, and had lovely ornate cornices. The bed’s headboard was wooden, with plush cushioning. Brass lamps were placed around the room. The bathroom was lined with pink and light green tiles. Strangely, the ‘hairdryer’ was one of those wall mounted machines.
We had a juliet style balcony with white pillars. Our view was of the gardens surrounding the Villa Masséna Musée, and of the Promenade des Anglais and out to the beautiful blue sea. We slept well.
Breakfast in La Rotonde
As the name hints at, La Rotonde has taken inspiration from the traditional French carousels. Since our stay, this restaurant has been remodelled. But when we were here, a number of carousel horses were mounted around the restaurant, and to our amazement, periodically carousel music would start and these horses would actually move up and down! It was unexpected and quite incredible! The theme has been retained, however the horses are now white, and from the website, appear fixed in position. I must say, this is a little disappointing. I am glad we got to experience the full flamboyance of the former La Rotonde.
The breakfast was as good as you would expect from a luxury establishment, with no shortage of croissants. Hot food is made to order.
Having already been amazed by the carousel horses, we opted to eat outside on the following mornings. The terrace was surrounded by a manicured hedge and you could look out to the sea.
Drinks in The Bar
We went for drinks at The Bar. Wearing the finest clothes from our suitcases, which I’d light-heartedly describe as ‘French Riviera casual’, we headed down late one afternoon. The Bar is fitted out in keeping with the chosen era. The cocktails were well made and were accompanied by breadsticks and a variety of flavoured nuts. We enjoyed relaxing over our drinks and people watching. As expected, the service was great.
Exploring
We didn’t have dinner in the hotel but did explore some of the other areas. Huge paintings and an eclectic mix of sculptures and statues are placed around the circular Salon Royal. Rugs and coloured lounge suites provide areas for guests to sit and talk in this amazing space. The dome is the work of Gustave Eiffel.
Not only were the lobbies of each floor dedicated to a different category of art, but the stairs between floors also displayed paintings and tapestries. It was like exploring a gallery. Amazing ceramics and busts also form part of the huge collection and are on display throughout the hotel.
Le Negresco’s outside spaces don’t miss out on art. A colourful sculpture of Miles Davis by Niki de Saint Phalle greets you on arrival.
The hotel is lit up beautifully after dark.
The Wrap Up
Le Negresco was one of those hotels we’d describe as an experience stay. Certainly for the cost you could do very well at other establishments, however we did enjoy staying in such a historic and iconic hotel. I doubt very much we will experience the vibe of a carousel over a hot hotel breakfast again.
If staying isn’t for you, head to The Bar for a drink and snacks, then take the opportunity to explore the Salon Royal on your way out.
