In 2016 we spent 6 weeks in Europe and did a train based holiday starting in Amsterdam and finishing in Lecce in the south of Italy. Our second last stop was Ostuni, known as the ‘White City’ given the white washed walls of its old town. Ostuni is a town located in the region of Puglia.
We loved Ostuni, and in this pictorial I hope to show you a few of the reasons why. If you are considering a trip to Italy’s south, perhaps you’ll end up including Ostuni on your list of stops.
White City, Blue Skies
We’ve all been drawn in by amazing photos of white washed Greek Islands, such as Santorini. The blue skies and white buildings make for a striking scene. Although not on the coast, Ostuni has its own take on the white buildings and blue skies theme which we loved to admire and, of course, photograph.
The other point of uniqueness is that Ostuni’s ‘old town’ is circular. Built within rounded fort-style walls, it’s quite captivating to see the town from outside its old gates. It was built on a hill, so the white buildings rise up from inside the walls, peaking with the Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral).
Exploring the Narrow Streets
Walking the medieval streets we came across inviting bars and stone walled cafes and restaurants. We walked through old archways and caught glimpses of church bell towers, and decorative windows as we explored.
The locals would be getting on with their daily activities in the shady areas near their houses and businesses.
We were visiting in the heat of the summer (early August) and the place warmed up fast each day. As a result, the streets were nearly empty by day, but it was shoulder to shoulder at night. We learned that people spent their days on the beach, only a 20 minute drive away. Then ventured out in the evening and into the night.
Photographic Pops of Colour
If only we’d been on Instagram when we visited Ostuni! So many insta-worthy spots. The locals have done a wonderful job of installing flowers by front doors, in windows and in little corners here and there.
Even these potted cacti create an impressive scene by this green door.
Coloured chairs and cushions set off these scenes perfectly.
Spoilt for Choice of Dining Options
Ostuni has so many dining options, cheap and cheerful, to deluxe five star restaurants. Settings can be within stone walled cellars, garden courtyards, or al fresco with sunset views. Here are some of the places we dined during our stay.
We had a generous platter of antipasto at La Gilda for lunch one day. We sat outside in the quiet street (pedestrians only) and hardly anyone passed us by (they were all at the beach!). La Gilda stock a number of boutique beers, so we enjoyed nice cold beers with our platter.
One night we dined on wide steps that join two Ostuni streets which are used by Borgo Antico Bistrot for their tables. It was an amazing sunset view from this place. We tried a selection of the local dish of ‘Frisie’. Frisie is double baked bread (so it is dry and hard), which is dipped in water and then loaded up with a range of different toppings. Toppings include tomato, olive oil, fish, herbs and so on. We also had a salad and some homestyle fried potato chips, served in a cone.
We had pasta dishes in Casa San Giacomo’s grotto style ‘ristorante’. I had a delicious baked melanzana (eggplant) pasta, and Hubby selected a very tasty orecchiette with polpette (meatballs). Orecchiette is a pasta shape specific to the region – it translates to ‘little ears’. The meals went down well with a local red wine.
On our last night, we dined at Osteria Del Tempo Perso. Gorgeous sandstone walls and white table cloths made for a great setting. We enjoyed tender octopus, crispy tempura battered zucchini flowers with cod, and orecchiette with lamb ragu. A plate of limoncello soaked ‘baba’ cakes was our dessert.
Of course, we had spritzes daily, as you do.
Special Mention, Our Accommodation: Hotel Relais La Sommità
We were so pleased with ourselves for booking Hotel Relais La Sommità. The 16th century former residence has been converted into a 5-star boutique hotel. And it is located right next to the highest point of Ostuni. The hotel has a number of terraces where you could sit with a drink to take in the view.
All the rooms are unique, and beautifully furnished. Ours had a blend of exposed stone and whitewashed walls, and views to the sea, over an orchard of olive trees. Breakfast was in a serene courtyard, with hot meals made to order.
Staff are very helpful and were happy to make dinner reservations for us and recommend a driver for day trips. We’d stay there again!
I hope this story has given you an interesting glimpse into Ostuni. Although it’s known as a ‘White City’, we found it to be a colourful spot.
2 comments
Bella!!
Certo! Molto bella.